Jenny Fraser

Biography
Jenny Fraser of Riverweaver - A Woven Story

Biography:
Jenny Fraser’s childhood was spent on the Fraser family dairy farm at Pokuru, Te Awamutu. Her grandfather had purchased the land in 1920. Jenny’s primary schooling was at Pokuru School then at the Te Awamutu College’s Intermediate. Her secondary schooling was as a boarder at St Cuthbert’s College in Auckland for five years. Jenny trained as a primary school teacher at the newly established Waikato University. She spent two years teaching, first at Pokuru School and then at Te Awamutu Primary. She then travelled to Europe in 1968, continuing as a relief teacher in London.

In 1970 she visited The Findhorn Community and was introduced to the craft of weaving. She spent two years there, the first year in charge of the large formal herb garden, the second year in the Findhorn Studios weaving arran floor rugs.

‘My work is exhibited and sold in a number of prestigious galleries throughout New Zealand and frequently purchased by overseas visitors. During my period as a weaver I have developed a style of my own and a sound practical knowledge of the technical aspects of fibre construction. I have a particular affinity for wool and a love for its intrinsic qualities, not only for practical use but as an artistic medium to express colour, texture, and form. My style has been influenced by my love of the flowing contours, so abundant and diverse in the New Zealand landscape’

Source: Jenny Fraser, 2021


Name: Riverweaver ~ Cottage Industry
Years: 1972-2017
Place: Waikato, New Zealand (NZ)
Biography: Jenny Fraser of Riverweaver
~ a woven story of colour, design, fibre & fashion
~all steps of the journey crafted in New Zealand

Family history:
The Voysey family on my mother’s side, were French Huguenots from Yorkshire,
UK, historically, traditional lace makers. In the mid 1960’s my aunt, Helen Birks, (mother, Alice Voysey), exhibited in the Auckland Museum with the Auckland Spinners, Dyers and Weavers.

Weaving Beginnings: 1970-1972
Findhorn Community, Morayshire, Scotland. Early 1971, Mr Jamieson of the Highland Home Industries, Scotland, who taught ‘crofters’ to weave, led a weaving workshop at Findhorn. Before long, I was weaving five Aran wool rugs a week for over a year on a counterbalance loom, with sectional warping. Our yarns were purchased from ‘end lots’ at a nearby woollen mill in Elgin.

New Zealand: 1972-1978.
Returning from Scotland to the Waikato in April 1972, I worked as a primary school teacher and weaver. I purchased a counterbalance loom from Yan Loman Looms, supplying him with plans for a sectional warping beam. Yarns were purchased in Auckland from an Onehunga Woolen Mill. My weaving journey in New Zealand had begun. In 1973, I was approached with a request to weave saddle blankets for the NZ rodeo circuit. Thanks to my sectional warping beam I could weave ten to twelve warp-faced rugs from one warp. This request developed into ongoing orders.

Early Markets: 1972-1998
I marketed Riverweaver personally, finding high quality tourist stores in Auckland, Rotorua, Waitomo, Christchurch and Queenstown. The New Zealand Craft Shows company, held shows in both the North and South Island, offering good sales opportunities. Corporate sales included Gallaghers Engineering, Hamilton, who bought from Riverweaver for overseas visiting clients. These were the days of a ‘feet on the ground’ approach to marketing.

Tamahere, Hamilton: 1978-1994
In 1978 we purchased five acres with a gully and stream in Tamahere, Hamilton. A flock of fifteen black and coloured romney sheep was sourced, a mobile shearer employed annually and using my aunt’s old electric copper, would wash and dye the fleece wool.
I purchased a brand new 48” 8 shaft countermarch loom and a year later, another 52” 8 shaft countermarch loom, supplying plans for a sectional warping beam to Jim Mecchia, Waikato Turnery, Hamilton, NZ. In 1979 a 36’ Jack loom was gifted by my aunt, Helen Birks. The three looms, including an electric carder were set up in the Riverweaver Weaving Studio, a large enclosed deck, overlooking the gully and stream. This was the beginning of a line of floor rugs, with a woollen warp and a weft of home grown fleece.

Riverweaver Rugs: Late 1980’s
Riverweaver Fleece rugs developed into designer Wall Rugs using hemp as a warp, and milled wool with a mixture of dyed and undyed fleece in the weft. My drawings were often inspired by views from the deck overlooking the garden, gully and stream. Designer commissions were received, resulting in Sails & Sky, Auckland and Our Flowing Earth, Hamilton. Looking Out is in the Permanent Collection of the Waikato Art Museum. Morning and The Other Side, are among others in private collections.

New Zealand Kid Mohair: 1985-2017
In the mid 1980’s, the NZ Mohair Association approached Riverweaver to weave mohair scarves for the ‘New Zealand Field Days’. NZ kid mohair was sourced from Mohair Fibres in Pokeno and woven in plain weave on a fairly open setting to maximise the fibres qualities of softness, lightness, lustre and warmth. ‘Bulk lots’ of yarn were spun and dyed to Riverweaver’s specification by Design Spun Ltd., Napier. Over time, a range of styles were developed; Riverweaver - Scarf, Manscarf, Long Shawl, Antipodes Plaid Square Shawl, Double Wrap, Cape and a Homeware Throw.

Contract Weavers, Knitter & Stitcher: 1983-2017
In 1983 I employed my first contract weaver, living locally, to weave in the studio. Later, I was joined by my husband, taking a year out to work as a weaver. In 1992, while returning to study for a B.Soc.Sc in Geography and Education at the Waikato University, (including a paper in New Zealand Art History, lecturer, Linda Tyler - Director of Museum and Arts - Waikato Museum) I employed two contract weavers to help weave the mohair scarf line. This number grew over time to eight contract weavers, a knitter, and label stitcher, living in Hamilton, Pirongia, Whakatane, Coromandel and Wellington. Colourways were designed for warp and weft, then the yarn and designs sent by courier.

Riverweaver, Hamilton: 1994-2017
In 1994, I moved into Hamilton East, in the heart of Hamilton beside the Waikato River, running Riverweaver as Creative Director - designer, buyer, despatch, sales and accounts.
During this time I gained a TEFL, followed by a Dip SLT- (post grad in second language teaching) from Waikato University,1994, while teaching short term ESL classes to Japanese students, at the Waikato University’s, ESL Department, then later at Sacred Heart Girls College, Hamilton

Rivermist: 2002-2017 ~ a super-fine New Zealand kid mohair yarn
Using fleeces of only the finest quality from New Zealand kid angora goats, a unique yarn was spun exclusively for Riverweaver by Design Spun. The yarn was one third the weight of the yarn used in the Riverweaver mohair scarf line. This fine, high quality, featherweight fibre, retained all the natural qualities of mohair; strength, warmth, softness, drape and lustre. Because of the open weave, a delicate, mysterious, ‘half hidden’ quality was evoked. The enchantment of an old shawl, captured in Rivermist’s soft floating, gossamer threads. Rivermist yarn styles included two lines; a handwoven Rivermist scarf and shawl and Warm Lace, a hand knitted scarf and shawl. Another style, Rippling Strands, a colourplay of kid mohair threads, wound as a warp, cut into scarf lengths, then stitched with invisible thread was introduced.

Markets: 2001-2017
With Riverweaver’s kid mohair and the new range of Rivermist, sales markets moved to include high fashion. Riverweaver was an exhibitor in the inaugural L’Oreal Paris New Zealand Fashion Week in Auckland, October, 2001.

There were several highlight sales and markets achieved internationally; a large order from Picketts, an exclusive store selling fine cashmere in New Bond St, London, an order from a ‘blue chip’ company in Double Bay, Sydney, a meeting with Trelise Cooper with an order for Riverweaver scarves. In 2001, a chance meeting with Michael Bracewell, director of Bracewell - Australia at a Trade Show in Paris, led to establishing a high end fashion market for the Riverweaver Scarf for over five years in Sydney and Melbourne.

Other overseas Markets included Denver CO, Santa Barbara CA in the USA and Pastel de Lectoure in France. In 1997 while in France, I gained a market in Lectoure, Gers with a company called Bleu de Lectoure, growing pastel (woad), a source of the blue dye indigo. They were working in conjunction with Toulouse University towards processing a blue dye solution from the plant. For almost a decade, Riverweaver mohair scarves were sent to Denise Lambert, where they were dyed and sold in their Gallery in Lectoure. (www.bleu-de-lectoure.com)

Related Stories: 1972-2017
Fibre Craft: Teaching: Design Department, Waikato Polytechnic, in the late 1980’s.The evening class introduced students to weaving on a four shaft table loom, an inkle loom and a rigid heddle for backstrap weaving. The skills of dyeing, felting and netting were also introduced.
Art & Design: A student at the Waikato Polytech in the mid 1980’s.
Baskets & Beyond: Creative Basketry, working with natural ‘found fibres’. Giving lectures and workshops nationally and internationally.
Backstrap Weaving: Workshops teaching Backstrap Weaving techniques to visiting short term Japanese students.
Arts Post Exhibition: May 2017 Riverweaver ~ a woven story of colour, design, texture & style
Riverweaver.com: Riverweaver’s Domain name (not currently hosted)

Source: Jenny Fraser, 2021

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